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Informational

How Many Light Bulbs Do You Need? Understanding Lumens

How Many Light Bulbs Do You Need? Understanding Lumens

by admin · Mar 7, 2024

Are you updating your light bulbs, but not sure how bright you need them? Or how many bulbs your room needs?

You’re not alone in the confusion. It can be difficult reading the package in the hardware store and understanding what the bulb will do for your home. 

This post will briefly touch on how lumens work and then guide you on how to make sure you have the right light for each room in your house.

What Are Lumens?

With major innovations in lighting over the past twenty years, bulbs have become much more efficient. That’s great news for your electric bill and the environment! But a side effect is that watts are no longer a good measurement for brightness. 

Watts measure the amount of energy used by the bulb. When all bulbs were incandescent, this also indicated brightness– the higher the watts, the more energy used, the brighter the bulb. 

But with more efficient bulbs, like halogens and LEDs, much less power is used while still producing bright light. So a 40 watt incandescent light gives off the same light as an 8 watt LED! 

So how will shoppers know that an 8 watt LED will replace their 40 watt incandescent? Instead of measuring power use, lumens measure brightness. Now no matter the energy efficiency, you can compare bulbs apples to apples. 

How Many Lumens Do I Need?

So how many lumens do you need for your space? To calculate the right lumen range, you need to know the square feet of the space and the proper foot candles for the area. 

The square footage of your room will help you know how much light you need– the bigger the space, the more light you need. To find out your square footage, simply measure the length and width of the room, then multiply those two numbers. 

For example, if your room is 10 feet by 12 feet, your room is 120 square feet (10×12=120). 

“Foot candle” is a less familiar term, but it means the brightness of a light source from one foot away. The target foot candle range will depend on the activity of the room. For workspaces like kitchens and offices you’ll want more light (more foot candles), and for bedrooms and dining rooms you’ll want less light (fewer foot candles). 

Once you have the square feet of your room and the target foot candles, then you can determine how many lumens you need. Simply multiply your square feet by the desired foot candles!

Let’s say that your bedroom is 120 square feet. Multiply 120 by 10 for the low end and by 20 for the high end of the target zone. 

120 x 10 = 1200

120 X 20 = 2400

Now you know that you need between 1200 and 2400 lumens for your bedroom!

Simple Cheat Sheet

If you don’t want to worry about foot candles, here’s a chart with a general estimate of how many lumens you need per square foot per area of your home. Remember, these calculations help determine the total light a room needs. But you’ll often concentrate light above tables, countertops, or a desk.

So if your living room is 15 feet by 20 feet, your total square footage is 300 (15 x 20 = 300). Then multiply that by the recommended 10 lumens to get a minimum of 3,000 lumens for your living room (300 x 10= 3,000). 

How Many Bulbs Do I Need?

It may seem overwhelming to need a few thousand lumens for your room. Don’t worry– you will still use relatively few bulbs to get all the light you need. For reference, an 8 w LED bulb will give off about 450 lumens of light. 

With just a few bulbs, you’ll have all your lighting covered. Put three in the ceiling fan, add a lamp with one bulb, and you’re done!

Need Help?

Proper lighting is essential to a fully functioning home– but it can be challenging to nail balanced brightness, great fixtures, and a budget! Contact the experts at Galleria Lighting for advice on your projec

Filed Under: 2023, Bulbs, Buying Guides, Informational, Light Bulbs

How Many Blades Does Your Ceiling Fan Really Need?

How Many Blades Does Your Ceiling Fan Really Need?

by admin · Nov 30, 2023

Ceiling fans are great at providing comfort year-round. A good ceiling fan will help you save on energy costs by circulating the air in your home. In the summer they create a draft, making the room feel cooler. In cold weather, you can switch the fan’s direction to circulate warm air from central heating around the room. 

Ceiling fans are so ubiquitous that for many people it’s hard to imagine life without one! So what happens when your fan breaks, and it’s time to get a new one? 

If you’ve shopped for ceiling fans recently, you know that there are a lot of options. From the ultra-modern models with a single fan blade, to the “windmill” design fans with so many blades that there’s hardly any space between them – many homeowners on the hunt start to ask: 

How many blades does my ceiling fan really need? 

Does the blade count actually change anything, or is it just for aesthetics? 

In short, the answer is “yes to both.” The blade count on a ceiling fan is largely viewed as a style issue, but it does impact the way the fan works. Apart from the obvious design differences, the number of blades on a fan will also affect its noise level and energy consumption. 

Noise Level

The fewer the blades, the faster a fan needs to spin to move the same amount of air. Lots of spinning means lots of moving parts, which usually translates to more noise. Take large industrial fans, for example – they typically have two or three blades and are pretty loud. 

On the other end of the spectrum, fans with higher blade counts can move a lot of air spinning at a slower rate. Less motion means less noise – windmill-style fans with eight to ten blades are virtually silent. 

There isn’t an exact cutoff between noisy versus quiet fans, but a good middle range is around five. If you want a quieter fan, one with five or more blades will likely be your best choice. 

Energy Efficiency

Another thing to consider when choosing a fan is how much it will cost to run. Fans with more blades create more drag, requiring more energy to operate. This is one reason why large, always-on fans (like you’d see in a commercial space) often only have three blades. They may be a bit noisier, but they save on energy costs.

While its blade count does impact the energy efficiency of a fan, it’s definitely not the only factor involved. The efficiency of fans can also be affected by the length and angle of the blades and by the type of motor it uses. It’s best to check the energy rating of your fan when possible. 

Style and Aesthetics

Aside from energy efficiency and noise level, the main difference between fans with high and low blade counts is really just style and aesthetics. “Windmill” styles with eight to twelve blades can feel rustic, whereas fans with two to three blades usually feel minimalist and industrial. 

How do I know what the right number is for me?

The short answer to this question is – it really doesn’t matter very much for most people. It doesn’t matter whether noise levels, energy efficiency, or aesthetics are your top priority; it’s pretty likely that you’ll be able to find a fan that will meet your needs in all three categories. 

Most often, it’s safe to shop by your style preferences first, then find a fan that meets your noise and efficiency needs from that selection. A modern, high-quality ceiling fan will be designed to work well regardless of the blade count.

If you’re looking for a quality fan that will keep you cool for years to come, stop by our showroom or give us a call. Our lighting experts are ready and waiting to help you find exactly what you need!

Filed Under: 2022, Ceiling Fans, Informational

Ceiling Fan Terminology Explained

Ceiling Fan Terminology Explained

by admin · Nov 9, 2023

A Helpful Glossary of Common Ceiling Fan Terms

If you’re shopping for ceiling fans and it’s starting to feel like the descriptions are written in code, don’t worry! We’re here to solve the mystery with a list of basic terms you’ll need to know when looking for the right ceiling fan.

Ceiling Fan Types

Ceiling fans are most often categorized by their motor type, mount type, and/or weather rating. 

Motors

AC and DC Motors

AC motors (alternating current motors) are the most popular ceiling fan motor. They’re typically less expensive than DC motors, which is great for budget buyers. They are relatively energy efficient, are very reliable, and come with around three to four different fan speeds. 

DC motors (direct current motors) are a newer technology and often use a remote instead of a wall switch. DC motors make a quieter, more powerful fan with more speed options and are more efficient than AC motors. 

Dual Motor

Dual motor fans have two adjustable fan heads attached to a central motor. Each head is adjustable to its own speed and angle. 

High-Velocity Motor

A high-velocity fan is a powerful fan. It produces a higher-than-normal amount of airflow, providing you with a stronger breeze. 

Mounts

Downrod/Shank/Extension Rod

The multiple terms for this accessory are purely regional, and all mean the same thing– the rod or bar installed between the ceiling and the fan. Downrods can be used in many rooms but create the most impact in rooms with high ceilings. Not only do they pull the eye upwards and make the room feel bigger, but they also bring the air circulation closer to you.

Standard Mount

This type of mounting system is for level ceilings. Standard mounts usually come with a 3- to 5-inch downrod, so the fan slightly hangs down into the space.

Hugger or Flush Mount

These are perfect for low ceilings and tall people. Huggers are mounted against the ceiling and don’t use a downrod. Depending on the ceiling height, huggers or flush mount fans can help the ceiling seem higher while keeping your air circulated and fresh.

Low-Profile Fan 

For a fan to be considered low-profile, it must hang down less than 12 inches from the ceiling. Most low-profile fans are flush mounts, but some fans with short downrods are small enough to qualify as low-profile as well.

Sloped Mount 

A sloped mount is a mounting system that includes a downrod that allows the ceiling fan to be installed on a vaulted or slanted ceiling. The base is designed to let the downrod and fan hang at an angle when mounted so that the fan will be perpendicular to the floor.

Rating

Wet Rated or Outdoor Rated Fans 

Outdoor or wet rated fans are designed to withstand direct contact with rain and snow. Carefully read the packaging of your outdoor fan because not all fans can handle the same weather exposure. If you live in a particularly wet or stormy area, you’ll need a tougher outdoor fan.

Industrial and Commercial Fans

Industrial fans have powerful motors and curved blades, and they can run continuously, making them ideal for large, open areas like warehouses and gyms. Commercial fans are heavier-duty than standard fans and more aesthetically pleasing than industrial fans. They’re commonly found in schools, businesses, and restaurants.

Ceiling Fan Measurements 

This section covers the most common measurements used to describe a ceiling fan’s function and size.

Airflow (CFM)

Cubic feet per minute (CFM) refers to the amount of air moved by a ceiling fan, using the amount of air moved per cubic foot in one minute as the metric. The higher the airflow a fan uses, the more efficient your home can be as you recycle heated or cooled air. According to Energy Star, 75 CFM is the minimum airflow of an efficient ceiling fan.  

Blade Pitch 

The pitch measures the angle of the blades compared to the ground. Fan blades are slightly angled to push the air around. (If they were parallel to the floor, they wouldn’t do much!) The angle of blade pitches typically ranges between 10 and 25 degrees, but the most efficient is from 10 to 15 degrees. 

Blade Sweep or Span 

A fan’s sweep or span measures the diameter of the circle created by the blades. You’ll need to know the span of your fan to make sure it will fit properly in your room – if it’s too large it could scrape walls or snag curtains. On the other hand, it may be distracting and look out of place if it’s too small.

Motor Speed (RPM)

Revolutions per minute (RPM) refers to the speed of the blades as they rotate, measured by how many times the blades make a complete circle in one minute. High RPM fans move more air than low RPM fans of the same size, making them more efficient. 

Watt Equivalence

Some fans will require more electrical power (watts) than others, so it’s essential to have a good understanding of how much strain your new fan will put on the existing circuit. A good rule of thumb is the longer the fan blades, the more watts it will use. Expect your fan to use 55 to 100 watts.

Weight

Residential ceiling fans typically weigh anywhere from 8 pounds to 50 pounds. Keep in mind that lightweight ceiling fans are designed to hold their weight alone. You should never add anything to a ceiling fan that wasn’t in the original kit without carefully reading the manufacturer’s instructions. Some ceiling fans allow for customizable light kits. In that case, be sure to check the packaging for how much additional weight it can hold.

Number of Speeds

Most ceiling fans will have multiple speed settings so that you can control the amount of airflow and circulation in your space. Most fans will have three speeds (slow, medium, and maximum speed). You’ll also want to see if your fan can reverse direction– this will help pull warm air down from the ceiling during the winter and help to cycle your heated air.

Dimensions

You’ll need to check several measurements to ensure your fan fits correctly in the space. For example, both depth and width can refer to the blade span (or the size of the circle the fan will make). The width can also describe how wide the individual blades are. Finally, as mentioned earlier, the downrod is the pole that connects the fan to the ceiling mount. Together, these three dimensions will tell you how much space the fan will take up.

Pro tip: All fans are designed for specific square footage, meaning that some are designed to push air through large rooms while others are for small rooms. Fans designed for bigger spaces would be disruptive in a smaller room (and vice versa). The packaging of your fan will tell you the intended size of the room, so make sure to check the square footage of the intended space and match it to the appropriate fan. 

Parts and Accessories 

The final section describes potential upgrades and customization options to consider while shopping for your ceiling fan.

Light Kits

Many fans come with a light fixture attached (called an integrated light), but some can be purchased and attached depending on the fan. There are three different light kits that you can use with your fan: uplight kits which sit on top of the fan and point upwards, branched or stemmed kits use globes or shades that point up or down, but the most common light kit is the bowl or shade kit which attaches to the bottom of the fan. Keep in mind that some ceiling fans with an integrated light may not include a bulb– you may need to purchase bulbs separately.

Remote Control

Many fans available today are remote control or smart-home compatible. A remotely controlled fan may seem like a luxury, but it’s also very practical – especially for those with extremely high ceilings! Depending on the model and features, you’ll be able to adjust the lights, fan direction, and fan speed with ease. 

Reversible Blades 

Some fans allow for their blades to spin either clockwise or counterclockwise. This functionality helps to customize airflow according to the season. For example, the blades should turn counterclockwise in the summer to push the air down (a downdraft), providing cool breezes.  The fan blades should rotate clockwise to pull air upwards (an updraft) in the winter, efficiently recycling heated air without cooling the room. You can either toggle the switch on the fan or use a remote to change the direction of the blades. 

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Ready to switch out your builder-grade fan or install a new one in the place of an existing light fixture? Now that you have a reference to all of the features and parts of a ceiling fan, you can shop confidently.

If you’d like additional information, a professional opinion, or installation assistance, contact the experts at Galleria Lighting, and we’ll make sure you get exactly what you are looking for! 

Filed Under: 2022, Buying Guides, Ceiling Fans, Informational

How to Choose the Right Recessed Lights for Your Home : An In-Depth Homeowners Guide

How to Choose the Right Recessed Lights for Your Home : An In-Depth Homeowners Guide

by admin · Oct 12, 2023

Recessed lights go by many names, such as downlights, pot lights, can lights, and puck lights. No matter the name, they all refer to light fixtures that are installed inside (recessed into) your ceiling. They shine light into the room without hanging down into the space like a chandelier or a flush mount fixture. 

There’s a lot to know about recessed lights before you install them in your home, but it can be hard to find all of the information you need in one place. So we’ve put together this handy guide with everything you need to know in one place to help you decide which recessed light is right for you!

Recessed Lights 101

Before we get into the nitty-gritty details, here’s a quick overview of some of the most important terms you need to know when shopping for recessed lighting.

Recessed Lighting Terms

There are three parts to a recessed light: the housing, the bulb, and the trim. The housing holds all of the wires and connectors inside a protective case that sits inside your ceiling, out of sight. The bulb is the part that gives off light. The trim is the visible portion of a recessed light that covers the housing and the hole in the ceiling, giving it a finished look. 

You’ll also need to pay attention to how widely the trim allows the light to shine – this is called the Beam Angle. Recessed light beam angles can range from a narrow 15-degree spotlight to a 120-degree floodlight. Generally speaking, anything from 60 to 120 degrees will work well for general lighting in your home.

Types of Recessed Lights

Traditional – These are the original recessed lights. They’ve been around the longest, but they have their pros and cons. They’re cheaper to purchase but more expensive to operate than LED options. They also produce heat, so you’ll need to be conscious of location.

LED – These newer recessed lights may cost more upfront, but they use considerably less power to run, which makes them cheaper to use. LED bulbs last for a very long time, so you won’t have to pay to replace them every year. They also produce minimal heat, making them a safer alternative to traditional lights. 

Ultra-Thin / Canless – These are a small subsection of LED recessed lights that have been designed specifically for use in remodels. The housing in these recessed lights is about as thick as drywall, so they’re much easier to install in an existing ceiling.

Ease of Install

If you’re replacing an old recessed light with a new one, installation is a pretty basic homeowner DIY. If you’re trying to add recessed lights where they weren’t before, that’s usually a much larger project. 

Recessed lights typically have a large housing, which means they need to be installed between the framing lumber in your ceiling. In new builds, this isn’t a problem because the spacing of your lights can be planned out during construction. If you’re installing recessed lights after the fact, creating an evenly spaced grid of lights can be a little bit more difficult. You’ll likely need to hire an electrician or contractor to help run the wiring correctly.

Canless lights are often the best choice for renovations because they can be installed almost anywhere in the ceiling. While easier to install, it’s still a pretty significant electrical project. If you’re comfortable with that type of DIY work you can give it a try, but most homeowners usually hire a professional.

Sizing

Homeowners are often surprised at the size of their recessed lights after they’ve been installed. It’s important to know that the measurement on the packaging of a recessed light refers to the size of the light’s housing, not to the size of the trim.

The measurement on the packaging tells you how large the hole will need to be in your ceiling so that you can plan out your spacing. You’ll also need to take into account the size of the trim.

Remember, the trim on a recessed light is there to cover the edges of the light and the hole, so it sits below the drywall and extends out from the fixture. Because trim styles vary, a 4” recessed light could appear 5, 6, or even 7 inches wide once installed.

Make sure you double-check that you measured the right part before you cut, or you could end up with a lot of drywall patching!

How to Choose the Right Size

Recessed lights come in a lot of different sizes, but the 6” size has been an unofficial industry standard for a long time. Now, with LED technology, manufacturers are finding ways to create the same amount of light in smaller packaging. Their smaller 4” counterparts pack a pretty big punch for their size, and they just might end up being a better fit for your space.

Light Coverage 

If you’re lighting an entire room with recessed lights, both 4” and 6” sizes will do the job well. They are pretty interchangeable as a general lighting option, but there are a few things to consider.

Ceiling Height: You’ll need to consider the height of your ceilings. Both 4” and 6” work well at standard ceiling height. For vaulted ceilings, you might want to consider sticking with larger lights with wide beam angles – the taller the ceiling, the more evenly diffused the light will be across your space. 

Existing Fixtures: If you’re adding recessed lights to work together with an existing light fixture like a chandelier or a ceiling fan, take stock of the way the existing fixture lights the space at different times throughout the day and at night. 6” recessed lights can help raise overall ambient light if the room is too dim. 4” lights are often a better choice if you need lighting around the dark edges of a room. 

How You Use the Room: The rooms in your home don’t need an equal amount of light in every square inch. Your rooms will feel better if the lighting is tailored to the way you use them. 

For example, this kitchen has beautiful pendant lights, but on their own they’d cast shadows onto the kitchen worksurfaces. This homeowner installed a row of recessed lights around the perimeter of the kitchen to provide better light on the countertop prep surfaces. In the dining area, a softer chandelier on a separate switch lights the table, which gives it a more comfortable, relaxing feel for when it’s time to eat.

Cost

4” lights are going to cost you less upfront simply because they’re smaller and cost less to make – although prices are going to vary based on materials, finishes, and special features. They also cost less to run because they use less power. 

6” lights may cost more, but (depending on the specific fixture) you may be able to use fewer 6” lights to achieve the same coverage as a larger number of 4” lights. 

If you’re on a tight budget, you’ll want to map out your room with both sizes and then run the numbers both ways to make sure you’re getting the best deal. 

Decor

For years now, homeowners have been ditching ceiling lights in favor of a grid of recessed lights. But, the lack of visual interest is starting to sway designers back towards beautiful statement ceiling light fixtures like chandeliers and pendants. 

In rooms where modern statement fixtures are providing most of the ambient light for space, larger recessed lights aren’t really necessary. 4” lights are a much better option for creating beautiful layers of light without over-lighting your space. You’ll find this size most often in rooms with a modern design.

You’ll find 6” lights most often in large open rooms that need a lot of light, and in rooms with more traditional decor. 

Because 6” lights are more common, they currently have more trim styles available. If you have a specific style of trim in mind, make sure you find out if it’s available in the size you want before you buy!

Location/Uses

4” recessed lights are most commonly used in smaller spaces like hallways, home offices, and over the kitchen sink. They’re perfect for lighting a reading or craft area where you want to see what you’re doing. They’re also a great size for highlighting artwork or architectural features without washing them out. 

6” lights do their best work lighting a large room like a living room or dining room. They’re also a great choice for rooms with high ceilings, as their larger size will help to spread the light more uniformly throughout the space.

Properly placed recessed lights can make your rooms feel bigger if you employ a technique called Wall Washing. Wrapping your room in 4” recessed lights will evenly coat the wall with light, making the entire space feel more spacious. This is a great trick for smaller spaces like hallways and narrow rooms, and it helps to hide imperfections in the wall finish. 

Placement is important here – if your recessed lights are installed too close to the wall, they’ll create a cone of light (called wall grazing) which will not have the same space-creating effect. The goal is to get soft, even coverage across the wall without any harsh lines.

Overview

To sum it all up, here’s a handy comparison between 4” and 6” recessed lights. 

Other Things to Consider

The size you choose matters, but there are other things you need to consider before purchasing! LED recessed lighting has come a long way in the past few years, and new features are regularly being added to the lineup.

Color

LED lights come in a wide variety of colors, measured in Kelvins (K). 

Warm light (up to 3000K) appears orange or yellow, like the light from traditional incandescent bulbs. It feels soft and cozy, and is a great choice for places where you want to wind down and relax, like a bedroom or a living room. 

Daylight light (between 3000K – 4000K) is similar to the light at midday. It feels bright and white, and is a great choice for most rooms in the house. 

Cool light (above 4000K) starts to appear blue as the Kelvins increase. Blue light feels crisp and energetic and is often used in offices and hospitals to help keep people alert. Be careful with blue light in your home – it can keep you up at night! 

The color you choose for your lights will change how the paint on your walls looks, so it’s a good idea to experiment with it first before you commit. 

Color Changing lights – Some LED lights are color-changing, meaning they can be set to emit warm or cool light, which takes the stress out of worrying which temperature to choose. Some lights can be changed with a switch in the housing, which is great for homeowners that want to choose what they like, set it, and forget about it. Others can be changed with a remote control or a smart hub, making the lighting in your house truly customizable to any activity.

Dimmable

We recommend installing LED lights on a dimmer switch whenever possible! Because they are so bright, it’s nice to be able to dim the lights to a level that you’re comfortable with throughout the day. Most LED lights are already dimmable, but some aren’t, so you’ll need to double-check before purchasing if this is a feature you want in your home!

Smart Technology

Smart LED recessed lights come with the ability to communicate with other technologies in your home, like a smart hub. Depending on the features, this means you could set your lights on a schedule or even turn them on with a voice command instead of a switch. 

There are a lot of things to consider when you’re installing recessed lights. Our lighting experts know all of the ins and outs and would love to share their knowledge with you to help get you started. Give us a call or stop by our showroom and see for yourself how recessed lighting can completely transform your home.

Filed Under: 2022, How to, Informational, Recessed Lighting

Lumens vs Watts: What’s the Difference?

Lumens vs Watts: What’s the Difference?

by admin · Aug 24, 2023

Light bulbs have been lighting up our world for over a hundred years, but do we really understand how they work? When you go to the store to buy a replacement bulb, the box labels are filled with numbers and industry terms that can leave you wondering how to know which bulb you actually need.

Fortunately, understanding the difference between lumens and watts is fairly straightforward. Take a quick minute to read this quick summary, and you’ll be ready to hit the stores to find exactly what you need.

Lumens

Lumens measure the amount of light a bulb emits. The technical definition is “the unit of luminous flux, equal to the luminous flux emitted in a unit solid angle by a point source of one candle intensity.” In less scientific terms, the higher the lumen rating, the brighter the bulb. Most mainstream bulb labels use the full term, but if you can’t find the word “lumens” on the label look for its abbreviation, lm.

How many lumens do I need?

Contrary to popular belief, you shouldn’t put the brightest bulbs you can find in every area of your home. The rooms in your home will all need different levels of light, depending on how you use them. Use bulbs with a high lumen count in areas where you need a much brighter light, like above your kitchen counters. You need much less light in your bedroom, so consider going with lower lumen count bulbs in warmer colors to keep it a relaxing space where you can get some sleep.

While there are complicated equations out there that you can use to calculate your “exact” lumen requirements, the trouble is that every person and every space is different. You may find that you prefer brighter lights than what’s “necessary” in one place and dimmer lights in another. Your best bet is to try a few different bulbs, or better yet – get a dimmer switch so that you can customize your light levels depending on your needs for the day.

Pro Tip: Lumens can be added across several light sources in a space. It’s not an exact science because it doesn’t take into account distance from the source and the angles of the light, but if you have three 800lm bulbs in a room, it will be lit with roughly 1800lm.

Watts

Watts measure the amount of power consumed by the bulb. One watt isn’t much, it’s equal to 1/746 horsepower. It’s named after James Watt, a Scottish inventor credited for creating a steam engine during the Industrial Revolution. The symbol for watts is “W”.

Most electrical devices are rated in watts, although large appliances that use more power are often measured in kilowatts, which is equal to one thousand watts. (1W = 1000kW)

The wattage of a bulb will tell you only how much power it consumes, not how bright it is. The lower the watt rating on the bulb, the cheaper it will be on your energy bill to light your house.

Before you buy, always check your light fixture for its watt rating. Never put a bulb with a higher watt rating than the fixture can handle. If the bulb tries to pull more power than the fixture can handle, it could start a fire.

 Energy-Efficient Bulbs

Before the days of LED bulbs, it was pretty easy to get a good idea of how bright a bulb was by simply looking at the wattage. The higher the watts, the brighter the bulb. LED lightbulbs can give off the same amount of light as a traditional bulb using far fewer watts. This is what the labels mean when they say the bulbs are “energy efficient” – they need less power to provide equivalent light.

TL;DR Lumens and Watts

Lumens and Watts both describe how a lightbulb works. Lumens measure the amount of light a bulb emits – the higher the lumens the brighter the bulb. Watts measure the amount of power a light bulb uses. Newer light bulbs like LEDs can produce a lot of light (lumens) using very little power (watts), making them more energy-efficient.

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Need help finding the right light bulb? Give the experts at Galleria Lighting a call!

Filed Under: 2022, Energy, Energy Efficient Lighting, General Lighting Tips, Informational, Light Bulbs, Lighting Types

3 Light Bulb Mistakes Everyone Makes And How To Avoid Them

3 Light Bulb Mistakes Everyone Makes And How To Avoid Them

by admin · Jul 13, 2023

Using the wrong light bulb can really make your space feel all wrong. If your room feels dark and dingy or, the opposite, harsh and cold, your light bulb may be the culprit. 

Before you buy another bulb, make sure you’re not making one of these common mistakes in your home!

Light Bulb Mistake #1
Using the Wrong Wattage

Watts refer to the amount of energy a light bulb uses. The lower the wattage, the less electricity a bulb needs to stay lit. Energy-efficient light bulbs can give off the same amount of light using fewer watts, which saves you money on your power bill!

Try_my_best/Shutterstock.com

Every light fixture has its own wattage requirements, so you’ll need to do a little sleuthing to find out what your fixture requires. 

There should be a sticker or label with the wattage limit clearly printed on it, although you might need to unscrew one of your existing light bulbs and look near the threads to find it. If you can’t find the wattage limit on your fixture, give us a call and we can help you out!

Most light fixtures have an individual bulb wattage limit (typically 45W or 60W), but there are some that have an overall limit for the entire fixture instead. For these you’ll need to add the watts together for each bulb to make sure you’re under the safety limit. 

It’s okay to use bulbs with lower watts than what your fixture calls for to save on your energy bill, but never go higher. Exceeding the wattage limit on a fixture could start a fire!

Light Bulb Mistake #2
Ignoring the Lumen Rating

A light bulb’s lumen rating will tell you how bright it is. The higher the lumen rating, the brighter it will appear. When it comes to lighting your home, different rooms need different levels of light. Work spaces need lots of light, so choosing bulbs with a high lumen rating is a great way to brighten your kitchen if it’s feeling dim. Other spaces like bedrooms and hallways don’t need to be as bright, so it’s okay to opt for bulbs with a lower lumen rating.

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There isn’t an exact formula that will tell you how lumens you need in a room, because it depends on your use and design of the space. You’ll need more lumens in work spaces like kitchens and offices, and less in bedrooms. If your design aesthetic is bright and airy or dark and moody, you’ll need to take that into account when planning your lighting. 

A good rule of thumb to get you started is 20 lumens per square foot for floors, 30 lumens per square foot for tables, and 50 lumens per square foot for desks, countertops, and task lighting. 

How does this work when you have more than one light bulb in the room? Do lumens cancel each other out or add up? The short answer is: lumens are cumulative. In a room full of furniture, light bounces around enough that the lumens don’t directly add up, and the more bulbs you use the less precise it gets. 

When you’re figuring out what you need in your home, it is 100% okay to add the lumens for each bulb in your room together to get a rough idea of what your space will need. You’ll probably end up adjusting it here and there as seasons change, when you repaint your walls, or if your use of the room changes. If your room has a lot of uses- consider getting bulbs that are dimmable so that you can change the light levels depending on what you’re doing!

Light Bulb Mistake #3
Buying the Wrong Color

If you didn’t know that light bulbs came in different color hues, now’s the time to learn! Light bulbs come in a wide range of light “temperatures”, measured in Kelvins (K). The temperature of the light you use in your room will dramatically change the way the room feels.

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Warm (2,000K – 3500K) 

Wam light bulbs give a room a soft, cozy, and intimate feel with an orange or yellow hue. Outside, you see this type of light during sunrises and sunsets. Inside, it’s often associated with vintage light bulbs, like Edison bulbs, or incandescent light bulbs. It’s great for places like the living room, bedroom, and dining room.

Cool/Natural (3500K – 5000K) 

Cool or “Natural” light bulbs give off a truer white color that gives a room a clean, crisp, and inviting feel. This light is more like the light you’d see in the mornings and afternoons outdoors. It’s great for bathrooms, closets, and offices.

Daylight light bulbs (5000K – 6200K) 

Daylight light bulbs give off a light that’s close to what you’d see at noon outside on a sunny day. Daylight light makes a room feel even more clean and crisp than natural light, but it can come off a little harsh if you’re not careful. It’s a great choice for lighting work spaces like kitchens and garages, and for task lighting, like a reading lamp.

Blue (6200K+)

After 6200K light starts to look blue, so that bulbs in this color aren’t typically used in homes. There are some exceptions: some artists prefer to work under this light, and people with Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) may find blue light beneficial in the winter months.

Bonus Mistake #4:
Just Living With It

If the lighting just doesn’t feel right in your room, you don’t have to live with it! Too dark and depressing? Add lumens! If your clean room still feels dingy, it could be that you need cooler bulbs… or if your room feels stark and cold, you can warm up your bulbs to make it feel more inviting. And always double-check your wattage before you buy! With the right wattage, lumens, and temperature, you’ll be surprised at how much better your lighting can work for you.

We know what a big deal it is to make your house feel exactly the way you want it to. Don’t let your lighting hold you back! If you have any questions about how to find the right light bulbs for your space, give our experts a call and we’ll help you find exactly what you need!

Filed Under: 2021, Buying Guides, Informational

Lighting Your Home: A Beginner’s Guide to Light Fixtures

Lighting Your Home: A Beginner’s Guide to Light Fixtures

by admin · Jul 6, 2023

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It’s easy to tell which light fixtures you love when you’re scrolling through designer home pictures on your phone. But when it comes to finding a light for your own home, the little details and product specs can almost feel like they’re written in a foreign language. What’s an accent light? Is that a pendant or a chandelier? What is that light called? I don’t know what to search for!  

If this sounds familiar, we have good news: we’ve done all the research for you! Put down your search engine, and bookmark this page. This light fixtures cheat sheet has everything you need to know to get started lighting your home, your way.

Lighting Basics

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Not all light sources are created equal! Before you dive into pendants and sconces, you need to know the three basic types of lighting.  

Ambient Lighting: The primary source of light in a room, also called “general lighting”. 

Example: A ceiling fixture provides ambient light, meaning it lights the whole room. If your whole room is too bright or too dark, addressing the ambient light should be your first step.

Accent Lighting: Supplemental lights used to light dark corners or to highlight a room’s focal point.

Example: A floor lamp added to a dark corner gives the room more even light. A wall sconce or track lighting highlighting a fireplace or bookshelf makes it a focal point in the room.

Task Lighting: Specific lighting designed to make doing a certain task easier. 

Example: Any light that is used to complete a task fits here. At home, this includes things like a reading lamp, a utility light over a garage workbench, under-cabinet lights above the kitchen counter, and desk lamps.

Before you even start looking at light fixtures, take a look at your space. Turn on the lights in your room during the day and again at night. Look for the places where the light is too bright or too dim. Then, determine which type of lighting you need to use to fix those places. 

Light Layering

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We know it’s tempting to just install that fancy ceiling fixture you found on sale and call it a day, but your room just won’t feel right if you’re only considering one light source. 

What is Light Layering?

Light layering is the practice of combining different types of lighting to create a mood. It’s an important part of your home design! Layered light sources, like a ceiling fixture and a floor lamp, work together to fill in dark corners and highlight a room’s best features, giving it the perfect ambiance.

Expert designers spend hours on this to get it just right, but you don’t have to dive that deep. Just make sure you have a combination of ambient, accent, and task lighting in your space and you’ll be on your way to a balanced design. Remember, natural light counts as a light source too! 

Light layers done right will smoothly transition a room through the day. They can transform a living room from a bright, daytime work area to a warm, cozy entertaining space with just a few well-placed fixtures.

Smart Home Lighting

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Smart technology makes light layering easier than it’s ever been! Smart bulbs and plugs make it so that you can turn on any light in the house from one place. You can set up different lighting profiles for things like work, dinner, and movie nights. You can even put your lights on a schedule so that they follow you through your day without any button pushing.

When you’re ready to start shopping for light fixtures, look for ways you can mix it up with new light sources. Choose light fixtures that work together to create the perfect ambiance and layer your room with light.

Light Fixtures

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Light fixtures come in a huge variety of shapes, colors, and styles. It’s easy to get lost in the lingo, so here’s a quick breakdown:

Pendants

These lights are suspended from the ceiling and shine light downwards. They’re typically used as task lighting over kitchen bars and tables, or in the bedroom to replace bedside table lamps. They also are a great choice for accent lighting that makes a statement. You might need an electrician to install them for you if you don’t already have wiring in your ceiling.

Flush Mounts 

These lights are mounted directly to the ceiling, with no hanging bar. The top of this light sits flush with the ceiling, giving it its name. Flush mount lights are one of the most common types of ambient lighting. They come in many varieties and sizes, so you’ll need to check to make sure it will provide enough light for your space.

Sconces

Sconces are mounted to the wall instead of the ceiling. Some cast light directionally along the wall, shining up, down, or to the side. Other sconces broadcast light in all directions. These lights are used for both accent and task lighting. Sconces can be installed almost anywhere, but they’re most commonly used as vanity lighting above a bathroom mirror, or as exterior lights on homes and businesses.

Lamps

Lamps are freestanding light fixtures that typically need to be plugged into an outlet. They can be used for ambient, accent, and task lighting, and they’re easy to move around a space. This versatility makes them one of the most DIY-friendly lighting upgrades! Desk lamps are used as task lighting for things like writing at a desk or reading a sheet of music. Table lamps are used as accent lighting, usually placed on an end table. Floor lamps are the largest, typically 58” – 64” tall, and can be used as any type of lighting, depending on its location, style, and brightness.

Chandeliers

These lights are the showstoppers of the lighting world. They are suspended from the ceiling and are usually a focal point of a room’s design. Chandeliers emit light upwards to reflect ambient light around a room. They’re most often found in entryways and over dining tables, but they can be added to any space to add an elevated sense of style. 

Ceiling Fans

This fixture is designed with airflow in mind.  Ceiling fans can come with or without a light kit, so you can decide what’s right for your space. With a light kit, they provide ambient light in a room. They come in different sizes to accommodate different room sizes, so you’ll need to measure your room before you start shopping.

Track Lights

Track lighting is a unique type of lighting with an industrial feel and a flexible format. It’s made up of two parts: a long track attached to the ceiling, and lights attached to the track. The light heads can be moved to any position on the track, and tilted to point in any direction. Track lighting works well as accent or task lighting to highlight artwork or to illuminate a work surface. It’s also used as ambient lighting in some modern minimalist spaces.

Recessed Lights

Also called can lights, recessed lights are mounted inside the ceiling for a seamless, streamlined look. Recessed lights are often installed in large rooms to increase the ambient light without drawing attention away from the main light fixture. Some are directional and can be pointed towards a feature wall or workspace for accent or task light. They’re also very popular in basements with low ceilings, because they provide light without hanging down into the room.

Under-Cabinet Lights

This type of lighting is designed to be invisible. It comes in a wide variety of styles, from battery-powered stick-on lights to hardwired LED light strips. They’re installed on the underside of a kitchen cabinet, out of view, to provide task lighting for cooking. Alternatively, you can install them on the toe kick of lower cabinets to light the edges of your floor.

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You’ve got this handled. Now you’re ready to go and make your space brighter and better!

We wish you the best and brightest of luck with your next lighting project! If we didn’t cover your question here, or if you need any help picking out a fixture that’s just right for you, don’t be afraid to give Galleria Lighting a call! We’ve got you covered.

Filed Under: 2021, Informational

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